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Ace Hotladiesguide Bg Suonerie Polifoniche Novit%E0 California Gurls 030555555555000303089 Hot Ladies Guide I’ve Hotladiesguide ritten this Ace little guide for anyone who wants to know all the basics needed Suonerie o cultivate and cure a personal crop of heirloom tobacco without the having to buy my full-length Cultivators Handbook of Natural Tobacco. Being able to grow a personal crop, whether for yourself or for someone in your family or circle of friends who smokes commercial cigarettes, is a powerful step toward independence from the death-grip of the tobacco industry, and I want to encourage you to take that step. Of course I would love for you to choose to read my entire Cultivators Handbook because I’ve put a lot of love and hard work into making it the most useful and interesting book I could write, but there’s no reason why you have to buy my book in order to know the basic steps you need to take to grow your personal crop of heirloom tobacco. So, let’s get started. The Growing Environment It’s a fact that tobacco can be grown anywhere in the world. It doesn’t matter whether you live in a city or in the countryside; it also doesn’t matter whether you live in a tropical environment, in an area with moderate weather, in a desert environment, or even in an environment of extremes of heat or cold. Of course the growing method you choose will have to correspond to the realities of your environment, but that’s easy, and we’ll discuss your options shortly. The first decision affected by your growing environment is whether you’re going to raise your plants to maturity in pots, or start them in pots and then set them out in a garden. If you live in an area with mild springs and warm summers them you can start your seedlings indoors in pots in early spring and set them out when all chances of frost are gone. If you live in an area with more extreme weather – either very cold or very hot – then you will probably decide to raise your plants all the way in containers. And if you live in an urban area without access to a garden space, you will choose to raise your plants all the way in pots. This can be done as easily on an apartment balcony as in a garage. Selecting Your Seed Varieties There are so many different varieties to choose from. Here are a couple of excellent web sites where you can buy unusual as well as conventional tobacco seed varieties. /www.newhopeseed.com and sand mixture and disperse it over the top of the soil in your pots. Don’t bury the seeds – just pat them gently into the top of the soil. Nurturing Your Seedlings Depending upon conditions, your little plants will begin to emerge in 3-7 days. Keep the soil moist but not wet. It is better to water from the bottom than from the top because the little seedlings are very delicate at this stage. If you are using a good potting soil you will not have to start applying fertilizer yet. If you are growing under fluorescent lights the fixture should be 6” above the plants. Rig your lights so that they can be raised as the plants grow. If you are using High Intensity Discharge lights the fixtures should be 6 feet above the plants at this point, and you should be able to either raise the lights or lower the surface where your plants are resting to maintain this distance. If you are sprouting outdoors the trays should be covered with a clear cover to prevent drying out by the sun or wind. Thinning Your Seedlings Depending upon the variety of tobacco you’re growing, by about week 5-6 the little plants will be several inches tall and getting very crowded in their small pots. To thin them out without damaging the ones you will be leaving it’s best to use a pointed object like a bamboo skewer to tease out the seedings that you want to thin. Try not to disturb the roots of the ones you are planning to leave. As an alternative you can snip the discards off at the soil line with a thin pair of scissors. You want to end up with two or three of the most viable seedlings per pot. Preparing For Transplanting At this point you are going to have decided whether you are going to be raising your plants in a garden or in pots. If you are going for pots, prepare as many 10 gallon pots ( or bigger) as you will have plants. Again, a good quality potting soil is sufficient, although feel free to use more exotic soil mixes. Know where you are going to place the pots – somewhere where your plants can get sun and breezes, and where they can be protected from extreme weather by putting them under cover or bringing them indoors easily. If you are going to plant in a garden, you should have been working the soil for the past several weeks, especially including well-aged manure and compost if you have access to it. The garden soil should be loose, free of stones and debris, and free of weeds. Obviously, by free of weeds I mean that you should have pulled, raked or hoed out any visible weeds, not used an herbicide. Choose your location so that your growing plants will have exposure to full sun throughout the day if you live in a moderate climate – if you live in an extremely hot environment, a little afternoon shade is a good idea. This can be provided by natural cover ( trees etc) or by erecting panels of shadecloth. Transplanting By approximately 8 weeks your plants will be ready for either planting out in your garden or planting into their final container home. By this time you should have thinned down to one plant per peat pot or tray slot. If you have started them in peat pots, simply take each peat pot and remove the bottom and score the sides so that it will break up easily as your plants grow. If you have been using sprouting trays simply lift each root ball carefully out of its tray. If you are planting into a garden, mound up a small hill of dirt where you are going to place each plant and make a depression just the size of the plant’s root ball or peat pot. Water the mound in the morning and plant out your seedlings in the evening. Your mounds should be 2-3 feet apart, and if you are making rows they should be 3 feet apart at least. Same with containers – water the soil in the container, add more soil to bring up the level, make a small depression, and plant in the evening. You can keep your containers next to each other at first but as your plants grow you’ll have to separate them to gives the plants room to breathe. Cultivating Your Plants If you are growing in containers there won’t be much in the way of cultivating – just keep a sharp eye out for weeds that may sneak in on the wind. If you are growing in a garden, you can simply walk the rows regularly and remove the weeds by hand or with a small trowel or how – making sure not to damage the tobacco plant’s roots. Fertilizing Whether you are growing in containers or in a garden, a once-a-week fertilizing with a 20-20-20 will do the job. You do not want to go too heavy on nitrogen because this can lead to leaves that are ‘hot’ to smoke. If you are using an organic fertilizer avoid high nitrogen things like ‘manure tea’ and stick with a balanced formula. Be sure that any fertilizer you are using includes trace elements – or add them by making a ‘seaweed tea’ and watering with it once a week. Controlling Insect Damage There are basically two kinds of insects that are the most likely to cause damage to young tobacco plants. There is the classic “tobacco Hawk” moth, which deposits its eggs on the underside of tobacco leaves. When these tiny, almost invisible eggs hatch they become a voracious green horned worm that can eat through a plant in a matter of days. The best way to control this predator is to go through your plants checking the underside of any leaves that appear to have tiny holes – that’s where you’ll find Mr. Worm. Pick him off and smash him underfoot. Old-time growers used to turn turkeys loose in their tobacco patch – these birds LOVE to flip leaves up with their heads and gobble the tobacco worms. DO NOT USE CHICKENS – they will uproot your plants digging for grubs, or just out of plain meanness. Speaking of grubs, if you are growing in a garden you already know all about grubs like cutworms. They are as destructive of tobacco as of other garden plants, and you control them the same way. Rake up the soil between the rows and step on them as you find them. I don’t recommend using chemicals at any point for any reason – remember you or somebody else is going to be smoking these leaves. Other insect pests, depending upon where you life, can include whiteflies and aphids. There are several excellent natural repellants and treatments on the market – basically anything that you would use on a food plant can be used on a tobacco plant. Suckering Your Plants As your plants grow beyond 2-3 feet tall they will begin to put out suckers – small buds that appear where the leaves join the stem. If left alone these suckers will develop into secondary leaves that will sap the plants energy from the main leaves. Just pinch these buds off as soon as you spot them, and keep doing it because they will keep trying to grow throughout your plants’ life. Topping Your Plants At some point around 12-16 weeks, depending upon your growing conditions and the variety of tobacco you are growing, the plant will start to send up a flowering spike. It will be obvious when this starts to happen, and the trick is to cut it off with a sharp blade like a clean utility knife blade ( be sure to wipe off the oil that is on new blades). The plant will continue to try to send up flowering spikes from this point on – sometimes straight up from the top of the plant, sometimes out to the side. Except for plants that you want to go to seed so that you can have seed for next year, these must all be removed. By the way, a mature tobacco plant produces 300,000 to 500,000 seeds, so one plant going to seed for each variety is plenty. Priming Your Leaves At some point around 14-16 weeks or so, again depending upon variety, the bottom leaves on your plants will begin to turn yellow. The yellowing will begin around the side veins and mid-rib of the lower leaves and gradually the whole leaf will turn a yellow-green, and then a yellow-brown. When most of the green is gone it is time to pick the leaf. Again, use a sharp, clean knife. Every couple of days the next set of leaves up the plant will reach the picking stage. The whole process can take 4-6 weeks until you are working on the very top leaves. Curing Your Leaves Most home growers use a simple method of continuing the drying process to allow the leaves to air-cure naturally. Take the freshly picked leaves to a low-light area – either a shed, or a barn, or a garage, or a room in your home, and using a needle and some fishing line simply thread the leaves up by piercing through the stems with the needle and line. Be sure that they don’t touch each other when they are hung up like washing on the line. If you are hanging them up in an outdoors shady location like a shed or bard, be sure that they have plenty of air circulation. If you are drying them indoors without access to a breeze, create one by having a circulating fan in the drying room. Many home growers like to mist their drying leaves from time to time to prevent them from drying out too rapidly. They are actually still alive while they are hanging there curing, and while gradually dying they are going through a process of converting starches into sugars, which is essential to the quality of the final product, so you don’t want to cut this process of prematurely by having them dry out too soon. Depending upon conditions, your leaves will eventually turn a golden brown. Because you have been priming them over the course of several weeks, you will have several lines of leaves each at a different stage of curing. Once leaves are fully cured there are so many options for flavoring and processing them that I can’t go into those details here, so I’ll stick with the simplest, most natural method of making your cured leaves into smoking tobacco. Making Smoking Tobacco As you take your fully cured leaves down from the line, lay then out on a surface like a table and use a sharp, clean knife to remove the big mid-rib and side veins, leaving yourself with a pile of roughly rectangular leaf tissue. If you like you can assemble these pieces into little stacks about three inches high and press them between clean boards with a weight on top for a week or so – this enhances the final flavor but isn’t a necessary step. Or you can take each little stack of leaf and a very sharp, clean knife – not a utility knife this time but a long-bladed knife – and slice fine little threads of tobacco off the end of the stack while holding the stack firmly with one hand, moving your fingers back from the end you’re cutting after each cut or two. The objective here is to wind up with thin little curls of tobacco that will be suitable for rolling in cigarette papers or packing into a pipe bowl. After you’ve cut your tobacco you can put it into something like a cigar humidor, or a canning jar with a lid – anything that will keep it from drying out and crumbling into tobacco dust. People add all kinds of things to their tobacco storage jars, both to humidify and to flavor the tobacco – orange or lemon peel, licorice, various herbs like lemon grass, flowers like rose petals – the list is literally endless, and you can find lots of ideas in the internet. Whatever you decide to do, the main thing is not to add too much moisture and to watch carefully for mold. The End I hope that you’ve enjoyed this quickie tour of the process of growing and preparing your own personal crop of natural heirloom tobacco. If you would like to learn more about each of these steps in greater detail, and would enjoy knowing more about the wonderful history of this remarkable plant, and be treated to detailed descriptions of methods used by tobacco-growing masters of the past, including details on a variety of Native American methods of growing and using what they consider a sacred gift from the Great Spirit, then please go to www.cultivatorshandbook.com where you’ll find The Cultivators Handbook of Natural Tobacco available for purchase, along with my other Handbooks on growing Marijuana, a connoisseur’s history of Marijuana, medicinal Marijuana, and cooking with Marijuana, and some other more exotic “gardening on the edge” ideas. Best wishes and happy gardening! Bill Drake

Ace Hotladiesguide Bg Suonerie Polifoniche Novit%E0 California Gurls 030555555555000303089 Hot Ladies Guide

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In either case, you simply fill the little pots with a good potting mixture, water the mixture a little to get it to settle down, and then top off your pots to being the soil up to the rim.

Next you take a small amount of tobacco seeds and mix them with an equal amount of clean sand. For example, a teaspoonful of seeds, and a teaspoonful of sand. You need to do this because the seeds are so tiny that you don’t want to put too many of them into a single little pot. Then just take a pinch of the seed/sand mixture and disperse it over the top of the soil in your pots. Don’t bury the seeds – just pat them gently into the top of the soil.

Nurturing Your Seedlings

Depending upon conditions, your little plants will begin to emerge in 3-7 days. Keep the soil moist but not wet. It is better to water from the bottom than from the top because the little seedlings are very delicate at this stage. If you are using a good potting soil you will not have to start applying fertilizer yet. If you are growing under fluorescent lights the fixture should be 6” above the plants. Rig your lights so that they can be raised as the plants grow.

If you are using High Intensity Discharge lights the fixtures should be 6 feet above the plants at this point, and you should be able to either raise the lights or lower the surface where your plants are resting to maintain this distance.

If you are sprouting outdoors the trays should be covered with a clear cover to prevent drying out by the sun or wind.

Thinning Your Seedlings

Depending upon the variety of tobacco you’re growing, by about week 5-6 the little plants will be several inches tall and getting very crowded in their small pots. To thin them out without damaging the ones you will be leaving it’s best to use a pointed object like a bamboo skewer to tease out the seedings that you want to thin. Try not to disturb the roots of the ones you are planning to leave. As an alternative you can snip the discards off at the soil line with a thin pair of scissors. You want to end up with two or three of the most viable seedlings per pot.

Preparing For Transplanting

At this point you are going to have decided whether you are going to be raising your plants in a garden or in pots.

If you are going for pots, prepare as many 10 gallon pots ( or bigger) as you will have plants. Again, a good quality potting soil is sufficient, although feel free to use more exotic soil mixes. Know where you are going to place the pots – somewhere where your plants can get sun and breezes, and where they can be protected from extreme weather by putting them under cover or bringing them indoors easily.

If you are going to plant in a garden, you should have been working the soil for the past several weeks, especially including well-aged manure and compost if you have access to it. The garden soil should be loose, free of stones and debris, and free of weeds. Obviously, by free of weeds I mean that you should have pulled, raked or hoed out any visible weeds, not used an herbicide.

Choose your location so that your growing plants will have exposure to full sun throughout the day if you live in a moderate climate – if you live in an extremely hot environment, a little afternoon shade is a good idea. This can be provided by natural cover ( trees etc) or by erecting panels of shadecloth.

Transplanting

By approximately 8 weeks your plants will be ready for either planting out in your garden or planting into their final container home. By this time you should have thinned down to one plant per peat pot or tray slot.

If you have started them in peat pots, simply take each peat pot and remove the bottom and score the sides so that it will break up easily as your plants grow. If you have been using sprouting trays simply lift each root ball carefully out of its tray.

If you are planting into a garden, mound up a small hill of dirt where you are going to place each plant and make a depression just the size of the plant’s root ball or peat pot. Water the mound in the morning and plant out your seedlings in the evening. Your mounds should be 2-3 feet apart, and if you are making rows they should be 3 feet apart at least.

Same with containers – water the soil in the container, add more soil to bring up the level, make a small depression, and plant in the evening. You can keep your containers next to each other at first but as your plants grow you’ll have to separate them to gives the plants room to breathe.

Cultivating Your Plants

If you are growing in containers there won’t be much in the way of cultivating – just keep a sharp eye out for weeds that may sneak in on the wind.

If you are growing in a garden, you can simply walk the rows regularly and remove the weeds by hand or with a small trowel or how – making sure not to damage the tobacco plant’s roots.

Fertilizing

Whether you are growing in containers or in a garden, a once-a-week fertilizing with a 20-20-20 will do the job. You do not want to go too heavy on nitrogen because this can lead to leaves that are ‘hot’ to smoke. If you are using an organic fertilizer avoid high nitrogen things like ‘manure tea’ and stick with a balanced formula. Be sure that any fertilizer you are using includes trace elements – or add them by making a ‘seaweed tea’ and watering with it once a week.

Controlling Insect Damage

There are basically two kinds of insects that are the most likely to cause damage to young tobacco plants. There is the classic “tobacco Hawk” moth, which deposits its eggs on the underside of tobacco leaves. When these tiny, almost invisible eggs hatch they become a voracious green horned worm that can eat through a plant in a matter of days. The best way to control this predator is to go through your plants checking the underside of any leaves that appear to have tiny holes – that’s where you’ll find Mr. Worm. Pick him off and smash him underfoot. Old-time growers used to turn turkeys loose in their tobacco patch – these birds LOVE to flip leaves up with their heads and gobble the tobacco worms. DO NOT USE CHICKENS – they will uproot your plants digging for grubs, or just out of plain meanness.

Speaking of grubs, if you are growing in a garden you already know all about grubs like cutworms. They are as destructive of tobacco as of other garden plants, and you control them the same way. Rake up the soil between the rows and step on them as you find them. I don’t recommend using chemicals at any point for any reason – remember you or somebody else is going to be smoking these leaves.

Other insect pests, depending upon where you life, can include whiteflies and aphids. There are several excellent natural repellants and treatments on the market – basically anything that you would use on a food plant can be used on a tobacco plant.

Suckering Your Plants

As your plants grow beyond 2-3 feet tall they will begin to put out suckers – small buds that appear where the leaves join the stem. If left alone these suckers will develop into secondary leaves that will sap the plants energy from the main leaves. Just pinch these buds off as soon as you spot them, and keep doing it because they will keep trying to grow throughout your plants’ life.

Topping Your Plants

At some point around 12-16 weeks, depending upon your growing conditions and the variety of tobacco you are growing, the plant will start to send up a flowering spike. It will be obvious when this starts to happen, and the trick is to cut it off with a sharp blade like a clean utility knife blade ( be sure to wipe off the oil that is on new blades). The plant will continue to try to send up flowering spikes from this point on – sometimes straight up from the top of the plant, sometimes out to the side. Except for plants that you want to go to seed so that you can have seed for next year, these must all be removed. By the way, a mature tobacco plant produces 300,000 to 500,000 seeds, so one plant going to seed for each variety is plenty.

Priming Your Leaves

At some point around 14-16 weeks or so, again depending upon variety, the bottom leaves on your plants will begin to turn yellow. The yellowing will begin around the side veins and mid-rib of the lower leaves and gradually the whole leaf will turn a yellow-green, and then a yellow-brown. When most of the green is gone it is time to pick the leaf. Again, use a sharp, clean knife. Every couple of days the next set of leaves up the plant will reach the picking stage. The whole process can take 4-6 weeks until you are working on the very top leaves.

Curing Your Leaves

Most home growers use a simple method of continuing the drying process to allow the leaves to air-cure naturally. Take the freshly picked leaves to a low-light area – either a shed, or a barn, or a garage, or a room in your home, and using a needle and some fishing line simply thread the leaves up by piercing through the stems with the needle and line. Be sure that they don’t touch each other when they are hung up like washing on the line. If you are hanging them up in an outdoors shady location like a shed or bard, be sure that they have plenty of air circulation. If you are drying them indoors without access to a breeze, create one by having a circulating fan in the drying room.

Many home growers like to mist their drying leaves from time to time to prevent them from drying out too rapidly. They are actually still alive while they are hanging there curing, and while gradually dying they are going through a process of converting starches into sugars, which is essential to the quality of the final product, so you don’t want to cut this process of prematurely by having them dry out too soon.

Depending upon conditions, your leaves will eventually turn a golden brown. Because you have been priming them over the course of several weeks, you will have several lines of leaves each at a different stage of curing.

Once leaves are fully cured there are so many options for flavoring and processing them that I can’t go into those details here, so I’ll stick with the simplest, most natural method of making your cured leaves into smoking tobacco.

Making Smoking Tobacco

As you take your fully cured leaves down from the line, lay then out on a surface like a table and use a sharp, clean knife to remove the big mid-rib and side veins, leaving yourself with a pile of roughly rectangular leaf tissue. If you like you can assemble these pieces into little stacks about three inches high and press them between clean boards with a weight on top for a week or so – this enhances the final flavor but isn’t a necessary step. Or you can take each little stack of leaf and a very sharp, clean knife – not a utility knife this time but a long-bladed knife – and slice fine little threads of tobacco off the end of the stack while holding the stack firmly with one hand, moving your fingers back from the end you’re cutting after each cut or two. The objective here is to wind up with thin little curls of tobacco that will be suitable for rolling in cigarette papers or packing into a pipe bowl.

After you’ve cut your tobacco you can put it into something like a cigar humidor, or a canning jar with a lid – anything that will keep it from drying out and crumbling into tobacco dust. People add all kinds of things to their tobacco storage jars, both to humidify and to flavor the tobacco – orange or lemon peel, licorice, various herbs like lemon grass, flowers like rose petals – the list is literally endless, and you can find lots of ideas in the internet. Whatever you decide to do, the main thing is not to add too much moisture and to watch carefully for mold.

The End